In simple layman’s terms, it is invisible light that has heating qualities.
Infrared rays are invisible heat rays emitted by the sun, or in this specific case, by the FIR (Far InfraRed) radiant heating panels. These heat rays come in a wide spectrum, from visible heat which glows red (Near Infrared), to the invisible heat rays at the far end of the infrared spectrum (hence the name – far infrared!) which are the rays that are emitted from our indoor panels.
This form of radiant heat is unique in that it heats people, objects and walls directly without heating the air. Far infrared is completely safe in contrast to UV, X rays or Radioactive rays. Far infrared rays are absorbed by objects in the same way that we already absorb the sun’s rays. This absorbed heat is also released into the room, called radiant heat.
Think of the sand on a beach, on a hot sunny day. The warm air isn’t heating it, FIR light from the sun is. Another example might be the pavement on a road, “baking” in the sunlight. But, you cannot get a sunburn from a FIR panel!
There are many studies that show that FIR is not only not harmful to humans and animals, but is in fact therapeutic!
With FAR infrared heating panels, think of them as “mini-suns”, but without any of the harmful UV. FIR heats all the objects that are in its path. This heat is stored by the objects even after the panels are off… think of rocks around a camp fire, and how they stay warm even after the fire is out. This is essentially how FIR works to heat your home, office, or building. The objects themselves heat up, and give off heat. This is called “radiant heating”.
For people and animals, the effect is almost identical to being in the sunshine, but again, with absolutely no harmful effects. An example of this is sitting in your living room on a cold winter day, and yet you still feel the warmth of the sunshine through the window.
Wikipedia’s definition is –
“Far infrared (FIR) is a region in the infrared spectrum of electromagnetic radiation. Far infrared is often defined as any radiation with a wavelength of 15 micrometers (µm) to 1 mm (corresponding to a range of about 20 THz to 300 GHz), which places far infrared radiation within the CIE IR-B and IR-C bands.”
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Our assumption is that you’ve heard “something” about far infrared heating, or “radiant heat”, or you wouldn’t be reading this!
However, reading about something and KNOWING about something can be a different reality!
Here’s a common way we use to describe what’s actually going on…
Far infrared heating (indoors) consists primarily of two parts:
Part 1) Is the immediate effect of feeling the infrared heat directly from the panel(s). Once the surface temperature of the panels reaches 90-95 degrees Celsius, they are then emitting their full far infrared, and will continue to do so until they are turned off (usually by a thermostat). This “immediate effect” is felt within about 10 minutes of turning the panels on by people and animals (because we’re water-based), which is about the time it takes the panel to warm up to 90-95 degrees. Again, this is immediately felt if you were to walk into a room heated with far infrared, or if you turned on panels and waited for them to warm up. Remember, far infrared invisible light does NOT heat the air at all, but you certainly feel the warmth!
Part 2) After time, the floor, walls, furniture etc. will warm up from the far infrared light, and in turn those objects will radiate heat (hence the name “Radiant Heat” or “Radiant Heating”) into the space, and THAT is what warms the air in the space.
One thing worthy of note, you will not require the air temperature in the space to be as warm as you’d normally have it with regular convection heat, or even any other electric heat. Whenever the panels are powered on, you will feel much warmer than the air temperature indicates, and why we always recommend that our hot yoga clients’ ensure their panels are “on” during classes. If they turn off, it literally feels like the sun has gone behind a cloud…it’s still warm, but not “hot”!Return to top
The short answer is “no”, but the longer answer bears some consideration.
240 volt far infrared panels are not more efficient, nor are they more effective than 120 volt far infrared panels…despite rumours abounding that they are. A watt is a watt, regardless whether it is being delivered by 240 volts or 120 volts.
In other words, a 1000 watt panel at 240 volts will use almost exactly the same amount of power (1000 watts), as a 120 volt panel.
Where the voltage DOES come into play, is with respect to the amperage, and this can matter for a few reasons.
Let’s walk through the power being delivered to your home. Most modern homes have 200 amp service, or perhaps only 100 amp service available at the breaker panel. That means that you have a total capacity (in theory) of 200 amps available, or perhaps only 100 amps.
Inside the breaker panel are (wait for it) breakers! These breakers control lights, outlets, appliances…all things electric in other words. Most single breakers in the home are 15 amp breakers. The general rule of thumb for breakers is to not utilize more than 80% of capacity, so despite having a 15 amp breaker on a circuit, you should aim for actually only using 12 amps of the 15 amps “available”. Not a good thing to utilize the full breaker capacity!
A 120 volt breaker is a single pole breaker that fits only into a single slot in your breaker panel, and that can only deliver 120 volts.
A 120 volt far infrared panel uses double the amps that a 240 volt far infrared panel does, however.
This matters, particularly when using more than one infrared panel in a space. As an example – A single 120 volt far infrared panel at 1000 watts from Ducoterra will draw 8.4 amps, as opposed to a single 240 volt far infrared 1000 watt Ducoterra panel that will draw only 4.2 amps.
Why do we care? As noted above, most house circuits utilize a 15 amp “single pole” breaker. If you wished to use two of these 120 volt panels in a room, they would HAVE to be on separate circuits (using two separate single pole breakers) because the total amps being drawn for the two 120 volt panels is 16.8 amps…well beyond the 15 amp circuit capacity, and even more beyond the suggested limit of 80% of capacity at 12 amps, and the breaker would therefore be tripping constantly….not good!
The solution is to use 240 volt far infrared panels. You can deliver 240 volts to any circuit by using “double pole” breakers in the breaker panel, instead of single pole breakers. As you’ve likely concluded, a double pole breaker uses two breaker panel slots, rather than only a single breaker slot. You’ve still used two slots vs. just one, but now you have far more amp capacity! Double pole breakers are typically 20 – 60 amps, so you’ve now gained the ability to place far more panels on a single circuit (vs. 15 amps at 120 volts), with only having to place a solitary double pole breaker in your panel!
That is the ONLY difference between using 240 volt far infrared panels vs. 120 volt far infrared panels…the capacity of your electrical system, meaning the total amount of panels that can be wired in.
There is only a negligible difference in performance, effectiveness, efficiency or even costs between the two voltages… certainly not enough of a difference to make a decision towards choosing one over the other.Return to top
We believe the best choice for our clients’ infrared panel installations is to hire their own installers.
The advantages of this to you are –
Ducoterra SolaRay Panel Weight (JUST the panel)
xxxAIP2 ( 2′ x 2′ ) – 5.4 lbs (Actual Dimensions – 22.50” x 23.75” )
xxxAIP3 ( 2′ x 3′ ) – 7.7 lbs (Actual Dimensions – 22.50” x 35.75” )
xxxAIP4 ( 2′ x 4′ ) – 11.0 lbs (Actual Dimensions – 22.50” x 47.75” )
xxxAIP6 ( 2′ x 6′ ) – 15.4 lbs (Actual Dimensions – 22.50” x 71.75” )
Spectrum Infrared SI Series Glass Infrared Panels Panel Weight (JUST the panel)
SI-120500 ( 16″ x 48″ ) – 23.4 lbs
SI-120750 ( 16″ x 72″ ) – 28.7 lbs
SI-120750 ( 24″ x 48″ ) – 34.4 lbs
SI-1201100 ( 24″ x 72″ ) – 50.7 lbsReturn to top
Here is an excellent resource to make the process as easy as possible!
The first step is determining how many total watts of power are required to heat your space. There is a general rule of thumb we use to calculate this, but the calculation varies depending on your particular environment and geographical location. We will absolutely need to know the ceiling height from the floor, and what it’s made out of will also help. Next we need the length and width of the room(s). Without the ceiling height, and length and width of the room as well as what you’re heating the space for (home, office, hot yoga, etc.), we cannot possibly determine your needs.
The next step is discussing your geographical location (climate matters!), your insulation, and any doors and windows in the space. The better insulated the space (particularly the floor) the less total amount of watts are required.
Once we determine how many total watts of heating are required for your space, we need to determine how many and of which specific panels will fill that need. Panel wattage varies (as does physical size of panels), so this is a very important part of the equation.
For example, let’s say we determine you require 3000 watts of total power. Would three – 2′ x 6′ 1000 watt panels make more sense than four – 2′ x 4′ 750 watt panels? Ceiling height matters for these decisions, but so also do aesthetics… and it may simply come down to what is going to look better but still provide the same heating. Generally speaking (with some exceptions), we don’t care so much what the panel configuration is, as long as you are providing the total watts necessary.
So, let’s say we’ve decided on four – 2′ x 4′ panels to reach our 3000 watt goal. Next in the process is the electrical part of the equation. We need to determine what voltage of panels we’re going to use. Please look at the second question in our FAQ section ” Are 240 volt panels better than using 120 volt panels?”, for an explanation of voltage and why it matters.
Lastly, you’ll need to decide on a control mechanism, or thermostat in other words. There are so many choices, that we no longer carry them. It became “cumbersome” to attempt to stock them, with so many choices. We’re in the infrared heating panel business after all, and not the thermostat business! That said, we’ll certainly help you choose the right one, and even point you to where you can purchase them.
So yes, there actually IS a lot to it…but we’re here to help and to make it as easy as possible! We’ll gladly speak with your electrician or contractor on your behalf to ensure they understand the technology, if that’s necessary.
The bottom line is that any electrician that has installed baseboards likely already knows what to do, they may just not know that they already do! After all, it’s just watts, amps and volts…something every electrician is already familiar with. You may not be interested in the minutia of every detail, and that’s fine too. We’re happy to explain it in layman’s terms (hence this Q & A), or in greater detail too. As long as we get the spec’s correct, you can have confidence in the process, and look forward to having a cost-effective “green” heating solution.Return to top
This is by far the most difficult question for us to answer! There are so many factors involved, that “knowing” what is required is difficult, at best. If you just need a smaller area heated within a larger area (for example a sitting area within a large rec room), that is easy for us to determine.
To further explain, one would think that if you have an existing heating system that is capable of heating your space to a comfortable temperature, then you likely don’t need to provide as many watts of far infrared heating to give it a boost. This is partly true, and also partly incorrect. Because far infrared panels don’t heat the air directly, the starting temperature in the space is somewhat irrelevant. Far infrared needs to warm the objects and surfaces in the space in order to ultimately radiate the heat that DOES warm the air. It is very likely that if you’re heating a room with typical convection heat (forced air gas furnace or baseboards etc.) the objects (and walls and floor) in the space are still cool! So, that is why “spot-heating” is the best solution for spaces with existing heat sources. That, or we have to spec the space as if the panels ARE the primary or sole source of heat.
Factors that complicate the equation are: where are the existing ducts blowing air (if gas based furnace system), or how many radiators are there, what size, and the list goes on.
The best solution for supplemental heating is to spec specific areas that you require additional heat, rather than the whole space in its entirety. If we know the size of the space where you’d require more “spot” heating (like a sitting area, or work area within a larger space)…THAT we can easily do, and with confidence!
Our biggest fear is under-spec’ing a space…because if it doesn’t get warm enough you won’t be happy, and nor will we! Our second biggest fear is over-spec’ing a space….we absolutely don’t want anyone buying more panels (or more watts) than they require.Return to top
Ducoterra far infrared panels are not available in but a few retail stores, and must be purchased only through Authorized Ducoterra Dealers and Distributors in order for the warranty to be valid. SolaRay far infrared heating panels are superior products, and are professional grade and quality. These are NOT the same products as the cheap Asian made quartz and carbon panels you’ll see in box stores. They are made in the USA, with Ducoterra offering an industry leading lifetime limited manufacturer warranty, and are expected to have a life expectancy of 40+ years.
InfraredHeat.ca is Canada’s Premier Ducoterra Distributor (we sell direct to the public too!), and an Authorized Infratech Dealer, you may simply use our contact form to reach out for more information, or you may call us. We’ll talk about your needs and requirements, and send you a quote. We ship anywhere in Canada or the USA.Return to top
The short answer is that they cost more to manufacture and import than “cheap” panels. You can buy a car for $15,000 or you can buy a car for $45,000. They’re both still cars, but clearly a $15,000 car is not built with the same quality materials, design and workmanship as that of a $45,000 car. Infrared panels are no different. Don’t be fooled into thinking you’ll get anywhere near the same value and quality from a product that costs $250 vs. one that costs $650. It just isn’t possible! And then there’s our included warranty… Lifetime on SolaRay panels, and 15 Years on our SI Series. Most of our competitor warranties are only 3 – 5 years (and for good reason!)
Beyond the obvious quality differences, worthy of note is the Canada/US exchange rate. Unfortunately, when the Canadian dollar performs poorly against the US dollar, our prices have to be adjusted accordingly.
Carbon and quartz heaters are very cheap to manufacture, and that is presumably why they’re made. These companies care more about selling you “anything” they can, than they do about what they’re actually selling you. The majority of these are made in Asia, with some even being produced by Canadian and US manufacturers.
If you read things on-line similar to “the panels should have a break every few hours and should be turned off for a few minutes”, or “the panels are not suitable for being the primary (or sole) source of heat”, ask yourself why that might be? Our panels have no such limitations.
Our panels are more than capable of being the sole source of heat in hot yoga studio’s, homes, offices etc. etc. If the panels you’re considering can’t do that, then they are clearly an inferior product, even if just based on that single difference alone.
Please have a look at our “far infrared vs. fake infrared” page for detailed information.
In short, carbon and quartz infrared heating is NOT a superior far infrared heat source, despite claims that they are. They are much cheaper to manufacture, and you will get what you pay for.
We’re 100% Canadian, so we’d obviously love to sell Canadian-made infrared products, and in fact we’d prefer to! Unfortunately, we haven’t (yet) found a single Canadian infrared manufacturer that can compete with the quality, design and workmanship already offered by our own SI Series of Glass Infrared Panels, or Ducoterra LLC and Infratech. It’s really just that simple.
We believe our products are competitively priced, particularly considering the low Total Cost of Ownership, and higher quality of our products.
If you’re buying infrared heating products based primarily on the price, we are clearly not the supplier for you. We wish you the best of luck with whatever products you choose.
If your search is based on seeking the highest quality infrared heating products, combined with the longest warranty available anywhere (LIFETIME!) with a low total cost of ownership, then you’ve absolutely come to the right “place”. We care about our clients and we won’t sell you crap just to make a few dollars from selling “something” to you.Return to top
Absolutely, you can lease infrared heating panels if you are a Canadian business. Sorry, there is no lease option for personal accounts, or American companies. As long as you and/or your company have a solid credit history, it shouldn’t be a problem. Your lease application will go to either Dominion Lending Centres or Prime Capital (our leasing partners), and they’ll make the lease approval decision based on your credit report. We recommend 2+ years of business history, but in the absence of that, your strong personal credit report may suffice.
We will gladly tell you how much the lease payments will be, based on the total price (pre-tax), and the desired length of your lease. Three year and four year lease options are the most common, and are available with a 10.00 buyout at the conclusion of the lease term.
That means when you finish your lease term it only costs 10.00 and you own the equipment, with no more payments!
Some advantages of leasing –
Leasing Protects Cash Flow:
With leasing infrared heating panels, you can spread out the acquisition cost of your equipment over time, freeing up valuable capital to expand the business.
In most cases with leasing, your first payment is all that is required at the time of signing. You can lease 100% of the cost (including shipping charges!), not including taxes.
Leasing infrared heating panels may be 100% tax deductible as an operating expense. Consult your accountant regarding the deductions for your specific situation.
Leasing is Flexible:
A variety of lease options are available, the term and frequency of payments can be tailored to fit your unique situation.Return to top
Once we’ve determined your specific panel requirements, we’ll send you a quote. After you’ve agreed the quote reflects your needs, we’ll convert the quote to an invoice and send that out to you. You’ll then have the option of paying for the order directly from the invoice itself (We accept Visa, MasterCard and Discovery), or you can send us a wire transfer…we’ll provide you with our banking information for that, of course. Interac eTransfer payments are also welcome for smaller orders.Return to top
Not in the slightest. There are no moving parts, and because of only the highest quality components used, the panels have a life expectancy of decades. Because of their design, they will never deliver less infrared 10 years from now, or even 20 or 30+ years, than they do today. All you need to do is dust them, or wipe them periodically with a warm damp cloth. That’s it!Return to top
Yes, the difference occurs because the surface of panels placed on the wall cool down more rapidly than that of ceiling-mounted panels. This is due to airflow past the panels; electricity is required to overcome these losses, hence, the panel will consume a little more energy.
Place the panel on the ceiling wherever possible for optimal heat distribution and lower energy consumption. In a radiant ceiling system, 80% of the energy is converted to Infrared, 60% for radiant wall-mounted systems and 50% for radiant in-floor systems. The dynamic efficiency of hot air systems (gas furnace and ducts) in comparison, is only around 35%.Return to top
An occasional-use building such as a cottage is actually a good candidate for a hybrid system. If the building is only used on weekends a hybrid system would be ideal, otherwise in a continuously occupied space you would have to leave the IR system on all the time (you may wish to leave the IR system on low, to prevent pipes from freezing). If your existing heater is capable of supporting the entire structure, a hybrid system can work for you.
We know of people who have installed a very minimal IR system aided by their old propane heaters. When you arrive at the cottage, you switch on both systems and allow the propane system to quickly elevate the temperature. When the cottage is warm, the IR system takes over and the propane unit shuts down. If the number of panels installed is below what the calculator recommends, the propane heater would take over (run in parallel with) the IR system during very cold days. This type of system allows for significant cost savings (fewer panels) but yet can reduce the energy bills by a significant amount.
On somewhat of an aside…we see cottage after cottage with baseboard heaters installed. STOP USING BASEBOARD HEATERS! You are throwing your money away on an extremely inefficient and expensive heating system!Return to top
Ducoterra’s SolaRay panels can indeed be painted to match your décor, provided only a good quality high-temperature paint is used.Return to top
Simply put, electric heaters look better, are more efficient and are easier to operate and maintain. Electric heaters are over 90% efficient and are perfectly safe for use indoors or outdoors. They are also economical to operate and require little maintenance beyond periodic cleaning. Unlike gas heaters, there are no valves, ignition components, moving parts or burners to maintain or repair. In addition, electric heaters produce no sound, odors or toxic emissions.
Electric heaters also offer added mounting and installation options. They may be flush mounted into a standard 8′ ceiling using our flush mount frame. When surface mounted, they hang less than 9-1/2″ from the ceiling. The most commonly used overhead gas heater requires a minimum ceiling height of almost 10′ and, when mounted properly, will hang almost 24″ below it.
An electric heater is also easier to use. Enjoying electric comfort heat is as easy as flipping a switch. You can adjust the intensity of an electric heater infinitely from zero to 100% of power by using Infratech Controls. By contrast, gas heaters only produce infrared energy on their highest possible settings.Return to top
If you are concerned about ambience, the appearance of your décor and creating a more relaxing environment, Infratech infrared quartz elements are always the best choice. Infratech quartz elements provide comfortable medium wave heat. Competitive products with short wave halogen elements produce more intense heat while emitting very bright and harsh-coloured light. By contrast, Infratech medium wave elements effectively heat your space, while providing a soft, warm glow that is practically unnoticeable.Return to top
Infratech elements are rated for 5,000 hours of continuous use. In many installations you may enjoy your heater for years before a replacement would be needed. Always refer to the W-Series manual for specific instructions, and be sure to disconnect the power to your heater before attempting to change an element.Return to top
Operating costs vary by region. Nationwide, electric heaters are less expensive than propane, and are competitive with natural gas. Depending upon the total hours of usage, electric heaters normally have a much lower cost of ownership when factoring in purchase price and maintenance needs. Basically, this means that while it can cost more per hour to operate an electric unit in some areas, it typically takes 7-10 years to save enough money operating on gas to recover the substantially higher purchase price-not to mention cost of regular maintenance for a gas heater.Return to top
All Infratech W-Series heaters are Underwriters Laboratories (UL) and Canadian Underwriters Laboratories (cUL) Listed under File E 29825. We are NZ/Australia and CE Listed under Wakefield Laboratories File NSW 21732. All Infratech fixtures are also certified IP X4 rated.
Ducoterra’s SolaRay panels certificate of conformity is here.
Ducoterra’s SolaRay panels ETL Certification is here. (When an ETL certification mark includes a small C and/or US, (Ducoterra’s does) it denotes that the product meets or exceeds Canada’s CSA certification.)
Yes, we produce our panels according to the “Quality at the source” concept; every panel is tested. We guarantee the quality of our product.Return to top
The only known technical problems were due to incorrect sizing, ignored building problems (water seeping into the slab, uninsulated slab for instance) and poor installations. There should be no technical problems as long as the basic guidelines are followed. If the product is installed as a system (panel, power supply, relays, and thermostat), the building is suitable for IR, and the transmission (sizing) calculator is followed, there should not be any issues.Return to top
A level of 40% to 50% air humidity is ideal for humans and animals.
45% to 55% is ideal for guitars! 😉Return to top
Yes, a certain amount of Infrared light passes through windows, the amount of Infrared that penetrates windows is dependent on its wavelength.
The sun contains light (both visible and invisible) in the entire electromagnetic spectrum; much of this light comes through the windows but only the Iinfrared portion gets stored in the objects, walls and floors. In return these objects “convert” the energy into far infrared heat. Once converted, only a very small amount of far infrared will be allowed through the glass, most is reflected back into the room. We do not recommend placing panels on a wall directly across from a window, however. Ceiling placement is always the best choice, if possible.Return to top
No, the panels emit far-infrared light which heats the walls, floor and objects; the resulting heat is distributed equally through a room. In fact, in a properly setup system, you cannot tell where the heat is coming from.Return to top
No, the operating temperatures (around 200 degrees F or 95 degrees C) are deemed to be safe to the touch by the regulating agencies (UL, ETL, CSA, European and other local regulators around the world). These agencies assume that the touch is brief and that there is no prolonged contact with the heated surface. The temperatures are comparable with the outside of a cup of hot coffee or tea. After touching the hot surface you would naturally pull away.Return to top
No, the lowest temperature of the year is a defining element in your “climate factor”. If you ignore this and you have several cold days in a row, your system will slowly lose its ability to keep up and won’t “work properly” until the outside temperature exceeds the design temperature once more.Return to top
During the cleaning process, always clean the heating panel while at room temperature. Remove the power cord from the electrical outlet. Wipe with a damp cloth or use a glass cleaner, being sure not to allow moisture to drip into the panel.Return to top
First, the low-intensity Far-infrared heating systems sold by Ducoterra are intended (and approved for) indoor use only.
In an outdoor environment there are many factors that need to be included in the equation: Such as heat losses through conduction to the outside of the structure, conduction to the ground around, the lack of storage facilities (only the floor and walls can store energy, not the open space), excessive cooling due to outdoor air movement and the wind-chill factor.
You should look at the Infratech outdoor and patio infrared products. They are specifically designed for outdoor use.Return to top
Unfortunately, because there are too many variables (unknowns), we cannot address in a preformatted answer. Due to these unknown variables, “adding “just a little bit of heat” is a trial and error process. The only way we can guarantee that the Far-infrared system in your addition will work properly is to use the sizing calculator and assuming that there is no primary heat source. In fact it may be better to cap off the air duct (unless required for AC) since the cool air from the home’s primary system may actually cool the surfaces and have a negative impact on the Far-IR system.Return to top
When concrete is fresh, it contains massive amounts of moisture (water). Depending on the soil and soil prep, it may take several months for the concrete to dry out. Infrared (of any wavelength) helps dry out the wet floor, but as the water evaporates, you are actually experiencing evaporative cooling. The drying/curing time with IR heat is typically 1/3 of the concrete’s natural drying time and as soon as the floor is dry the system will perform as anticipated.Return to top
In your scenario, since you have a continuous slab floor, you are unintentionally trying to heat the entire warehouse with only the heating system in the shipping manager’s office. You are heating the concrete floor in your shipping manager’s office, but your installer did not take into account that the entire warehouse shares the same slab. Though the building may be insulated at the perimeter, your tiny heating system is trying to heat the entire warehouse through what is known as “conduction”.
To optimize heating efficiency, you will need to line the manager’s office floor with a thin layer of insulation and cover this with a few inches of concrete or wooden floor boards. Once the heat transfer to the rest of the building has been stopped the system will work as designed.Return to top
Concrete floors are ideal for storing far-infrared heat. To prove this, we can look at outside brick or concrete slabs; these surfaces will stay warm for many hours after the sun has gone down. To optimize a concrete floor for heat-energy storage we need to insulate it (similar to in-floor radiant heat).
To explain how this works in simple terms. we compare this with a cooking pan. We heat a pan on the stove and when we take it off the pan is very hot; this is because the pan and everything in it stores the heat-energy. After we take it off, we put it on an insulated pad to keep it warm longer. Over time, the pan will cool off. This happens because the heat-energy is transferred from the pan to other media (air or objects).
We experience three kinds of heat transfer:
If we put the pan on a large cool surface, the “conduction” component will become the most significant “cooling” (heat transfer or heat-loss) factor. If we place the pan on a cold metal counter, it would cool off in just a minute or two, and possibly 5 minutes on a stone counter. The same is true for an uninsulated concrete slab; most of the heat it stores would simply conduct to the outside environment and the heating system would constantly work to replace the lost heat.
In contrast, a properly insulated floor would retain the heat-energy for long periods of time, and in many cases the Far-infrared heating system is only active during less expensive “off peak hours” and is off during expensive “peak hours”. During the “off” time, the floor releases its stored energy and gets replenished during the “on” time.Return to top